Melasma vs Dark Spots vs Post-Acne Marks: How to Tell the Difference and Treat Each One
You've noticed patches of darker skin on your face. But is it melasma? Sun damage? Leftover marks from a breakout? The answer matters — because each type of pigmentation has a different cause, a different behaviour, and responds best to different skincare approaches.
This guide gives you a clear framework for identifying your pigmentation type and choosing the right approach to address it.
Why Pigmentation Happens
All pigmentation — regardless of type — is caused by an overproduction of melanin, the pigment that gives skin its colour. Melanin is produced by cells called melanocytes, triggered by the enzyme tyrosinase.
What differs between pigmentation types is what triggers that overproduction — and that's what determines the right skincare approach.
Type 1: Melasma
What it looks like
Melasma appears as large, symmetrical patches of brown or greyish-brown pigmentation, most commonly on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, and chin. It often has irregular, feathered edges and tends to affect both sides of the face equally.
What causes it
Melasma is primarily driven by hormonal fluctuations — particularly oestrogen and progesterone. It's extremely common during pregnancy (often called the "mask of pregnancy"), when taking hormonal contraceptives, or during perimenopause. UV exposure dramatically worsens it.
Key characteristics
- Symmetrical pattern across the face
- Worsens significantly with sun exposure
- Often fluctuates with hormonal changes
- More common in medium to darker skin tones
- Tends to be deeper in the skin (dermal melasma can be more persistent)
Recommended skincare approach
Melasma responds well to consistent, long-term tyrosinase inhibition combined with strict SPF use. The Ammuri Exosome Serum with Kojic Acid targets melanin overproduction at the cellular level — a well-regarded approach for hormonal pigmentation. Pair with Vitamin C Day Cream SPF 50 every morning without exception.
Type 2: Sun-Induced Dark Spots (Solar Lentigines)
What it looks like
Sun spots appear as small, well-defined, flat brown spots — typically on areas with the most sun exposure: face, hands, décolleté, and shoulders. They are usually uniform in colour with clear edges.
What causes it
Cumulative UV exposure triggers localised melanin overproduction as a protective response. Unlike melasma, sun spots are not hormonally driven — they are purely a result of UV damage accumulating over time.
Key characteristics
- Small, clearly defined spots (not patches)
- Appear on sun-exposed areas
- Increase in number and darkness with age
- Do not fluctuate with hormones
- Generally respond well to topical skincare
Recommended skincare approach
Sun spots respond well to a combination of cell turnover support and tyrosinase inhibition. Use the Ammuri Retinol 3.5% Serum at night to help shed pigmented surface cells, and the Exosome Serum with Kojic Acid to help prevent new melanin formation. Always finish mornings with SPF 50 — without it, new spots will continue forming.
Type 3: Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)
What it looks like
PIH appears as flat marks left behind after skin inflammation — most commonly after acne, but also after eczema, cuts, insect bites, or any skin trauma. Colour ranges from pink and red (in lighter skin tones) to brown, dark brown, or even purple-grey (in medium to darker skin tones).
What causes it
When skin is inflamed or injured, melanocytes go into overdrive as part of the healing response — depositing excess melanin in the affected area. The darker your natural skin tone, the more pronounced this response tends to be.
Key characteristics
- Appears exactly where a spot or injury was
- Flat (not raised — that would be scarring)
- Fades naturally over time, but slowly (months to years without a targeted routine)
- More pronounced in medium to darker skin tones
- Worsens with picking or further inflammation
Recommended skincare approach
PIH responds well to a combination of cell turnover support and melanin inhibition. The Ammuri Retinol 2.5% Serum with Vitamin C & Niacinamide is a strong choice — Niacinamide specifically helps reduce the appearance of PIH by inhibiting melanin transfer to skin cells. For a targeted serum for dark spots and uneven-looking skin, the Ammuri Extreme Brightening Serum combines well-regarded brightening actives to help support a more even-looking complexion with consistent use. Follow with the Exosome Hydro-Glow Cream to support overnight recovery.
Quick Diagnosis Guide
| Feature | Melasma | Sun Spots | Post-Acne Marks (PIH) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pattern | Large symmetrical patches | Small defined spots | Exactly where spots were |
| Main trigger | Hormones + UV | UV exposure | Inflammation / acne |
| Location | Cheeks, forehead, lip | Sun-exposed areas | Anywhere acne occurred |
| Worsens with sun? | Yes, dramatically | Yes | Yes |
| Fades on its own? | Rarely without a routine | Very slowly | Yes, but takes months |
| Key ingredients | Kojic Acid + SPF | Retinol + Kojic Acid + SPF | Retinol + Niacinamide + SPF |
The One Thing All Three Have in Common
SPF is non-negotiable for all pigmentation types. UV exposure triggers and worsens every form of hyperpigmentation. Without daily broad-spectrum protection, no brightening routine will deliver its full potential.
The Ammuri Vitamin C Day Cream SPF 50 combines antioxidant brightening with broad-spectrum UV protection — making it the essential final step in any pigmentation-targeting morning routine.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I have more than one type of pigmentation at once?
Yes — it's very common to have sun spots and post-acne marks simultaneously, or melasma worsened by sun damage. The good news is that the Ammuri protocol addresses all three mechanisms at once.
How long does it take to fade pigmentation?
Surface-level pigmentation (mild PIH, early sun spots) can begin to look improved with consistent use — individual results vary. Deeper pigmentation like dermal melasma may take longer with consistent use.
Does picking spots make PIH worse?
Significantly. Picking increases inflammation, which directly triggers more melanin production. The best thing you can do for post-acne marks is address the active breakout gently and start a brightening routine as soon as the spot heals.
Is Kojic Acid safe for all skin tones?
Yes. Unlike some brightening agents, Kojic Acid is well tolerated across all skin tones and does not carry the risks associated with hydroquinone.
The Bottom Line
Identifying your pigmentation type is the first step to addressing it effectively. Melasma, sun spots, and post-acne marks each have distinct causes — but all respond to the same core principles: melanin inhibition, cell turnover support, and daily SPF protection.
Ammuri's brightening formulations are designed to address all three — individually or in combination.
→ Shop Exosome Serum for Dark Spots & Pigmentation
→ Shop Retinol 2.5% with Vitamin C & Niacinamide
→ Shop Vitamin C Day Cream SPF 50